In an obscure corner, not far from the Chanderi Fort in Madhya Pradesh, India, is a plain stone quadrilateral devoid of ornamentation of any sort. It is surrounded by different species of cacti. This happens to be the tomb of Baiju Bawra, a legendary musician who is believed to have lived during medieval times. Who was Baiju Bawra? What are the legends surrounding him? read on to know more about the man and the musician whose tomb lies unsung in a corner of Chanderi.
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The Tomb of Baiju Bawra – A Tomb Unsung
Ye faatiha koi aaye kyon
koi chaar phool chadaaye kyon
koi aake shama jalaaye kyon
main to beqasi ka majaar hoon
naa kisi ki aankh ka noor hoon-Bahadur Shah Zafar
Our guide in Chanderi, Kalebhai quoted these beautiful and melancholic lines from a famous ghazal by Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal Emperor of India and a poet in his own right. The purport of these words are, “why will anyone sing a requiem here, why will anyone offer flowers, why will anyone light a lamp, I am the tomb of a destitute who was never the apple of anyone’s eye.” These words aptly sum up the forlorn and desolate structure that is the tomb of Baiju Bawra.
The Tomb of Baiju Bawra – The Legend of The Musician
There is hardly any historical background available about the man the world knows as Baiju Bawra. Whatever is known is pieced together from the myths, stories, and legends of the musician. It is believed that Baiju Bawra was born as Baijnath Tiwari in a Brahmin family who stayed in Champaner which is today in Gujarat State. It is known that he lost his father when he was still a young boy and that he learned music from Swami Haridas who was a musician saint well versed in the Dhrupad style of music.
Legend has it that Baiju was a contemporary of the other shining star of Indian classical music, Tansen. It is believed that Baiju once challenged Tansen in a musical face-off and defeated him. The 1952 Hindi film, “Baiju Bawra”, which was based on the legendary musician’s life, however, took a lot of creative liberty to weave a dramatic version that had elements of love and revenge woven together by soulful classical music in the Khayal format of Hindustani Classical music. However, it is believed that Baiju was a musician in the Dhrupal genre, which was in vogue during his time.
It is not known exactly how Baijnath Tiwari earned the name of Baiju Bawra. Some versions ascribe the prefix Bawra which means mad, to his fanatic madness for his music. Another story has it that he had adopted a son named Gopal and trained him in music. It is said that Baiju Bawra was a court musician at the court of Mansingh Tomar the then ruler of Gwalior.
His musical fame reached the ears of the King of Chanderi and he was invited by the Raja of Chanderi to grace his court. Baiju Bawra settled down in Chanderi and it was here that his adopted son Gopal misled by some wandering merchants left him. Gopal was by then married and had a daughter named Meera who was very dear to Baiju Bawra and he was desolate after the separation with her. He spent his last days lamenting for his granddaughter and son in a state of madness.
There are many myths and stories of the legendary musician and there is no way to ascertain which are true. But what remains bright and clear is his musical genius and he is revered even today as a maestro of Dhrupal. It is believed that the power of his music was such that he could light lamps, bring on rain, and even melt marble.
It is believed that Baiju Bawra died of typhoid, a broken and desolate man on the day of Vasant Panchami in the year 1610 in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh.
The Tomb of Baiju Bawra – Baiju Bawra Dhrupad Utsav
The music of Baiju Bawra, contrary to the desolate appearance of his grave, lives on. Every year on the day of Vasant Panchami, a music festival that celebrates Dhrupad is organized in Chanderi as a tribute to the great musical genius of the man the world knew as Baiju Bawra.
The Baiju Bawra Dhrupad Utsav is organized by Achaleshwar Mahadev Temple Foundation. The festival held on Vasant Panchami usually happens in the month of February. A small group of locals and other connoisseurs of Hindustani classical music gather together in Chanderi to listen to some of the noted musicians of India pay a musical tribute to Baiju Bawra.
The Tomb of Baiju Bawra – Where Lovers Etch Their Names on Cactus
The tomb of Baiju Bawra lies in a desolate corner, bearing the brunt of the harsh sun. A few cactus plants keep the tomb company. Visitors barely give the tomb a glance, unless they are guided to it.
But one strange thing to notice here is that the leaves of the cactus plants have the names of lovers etched on them. It is believed that doing so would ensure immortal love and a bond forever for the lovers, just like Baiju Bawra and his love and everlasting bond with his music.
As we leave the tomb of Baiju Bawra behind, we say a silent requiem to the man who is said to have created stunning miracles with the power of his music. A man whose voice is silent forever, but a man whose music lives on.
How To Get to the Tomb of Baiju Bawra
Bhopal to Chanderi Route Map – Bhopal to Chanderi Direction
Gwalior to Chanderi Route Map – Gwalior to Chanderi Direction
- The tomb of Baiju Bawra is located near Chanderi Fort in the town of Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, India
- Chanderi is about 214 kilometers from Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh
- Chanderi is about 210 kilometers from the city of Gwalior
- To reach Chanderi one can fly to Bhopal or Gwalior and then continue by road
- The nearest railhead to Chanderi is Lalitpur at a distance of about 40 kilometers
If you are thinking of visiting the tomb of Baiju Bawra and planning a trip to Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, India you can book a cheap flight through TripAdvisor or Agoda or CheapAir or Cleartrip or Makemytrip or Priceline right here. If you are planning to travel by road to Chanderi from Bhopal or Gwalior, some of the options to reach Chanderi are by self-drive car or cab, or bus.
Where to Stay In Chanderi
Chanderi is a small town and does not have too many options for accommodation to choose from. There is a hotel run by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation right next to where the tomb of Baiju Bawra is located, called MPT Kila Kothi.
Are you are looking to book a hotel in Chanderi, you can do that right here. You can book Chanderi hotels through TripAdvisor or Cleartrip or Agoda or Makemytrip or Priceline and save a lot by getting the best savings on booking your stay.
| Click to book the best hotels in Chanderi, MP, or best hotels in Madhya Pradesh |
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Places To Visit In Chanderi
Chanderi is one of the off-beat tourist destinations of Madhya Pradesh. It is in many ways, the best-kept secret of Madhya Pradesh. It has many gems from history waiting to be discovered. Here are some of the important places to visit in Chanderi.
- Chanderi Museum
- Chanderi Fort | Chanderi Ka Kila | Kirti Durg
- Johar Smarak
- Tomb of Baiju Bawra
- Badal Mahal
- Jama Masjid
- Kati Ghati
- Chanderi Silk Handloom Park
- Shehzadi Ka Roza
- Khooni Darwaza
- Battisi Bawdi
- Nizamuddin Auliya Family Tombs
Madhya Pradesh is a land of diverse attractions. It is rich in heritage with places like Bhimbetka, Sanchi, Khajuraho, Bhojpur, and other places. It has nature and wildlife come alive in places like Pench, Pachmarhi, and other places. If you are planning a visit to the multi-dimensional state and thinking of
what to see in MP or what to do in Madhya Pradesh, then book online right here places to see in Madhya Pradesh and cover attractions in Bhopal and MP.
| Click here to know more and book Best Attractions in Madhya Pradesh |
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I had no idea about Baiju Bawra until I read your blog.. the ironic part is he won against Tansen yet history never spoke about it the way we speak for Tansen.. great post .. today I learned something new
It was a lovely read through the post with so much of details and I got to know some more facts about the history of the town. Enjoyed reading it. Will definitely going to visit Chanderi soon
Although I have heard a lot about The Tomb of Baiju Bawra in Chanderi but I never had the luck to visit MP. Your guide is beautiful and review is wonderfully written.
Usually I don’t prefer to visit tomb like this. But I would like to visit MP to discover this beautiful state.
What an interesting place surely watch the movie of the musician & will try to plan for Chanderi what an amazing pictures .
It’s always amazing when people talk about legends and their sad stories. Your heart goes out to them but there’s nothing we can do sadly. Good information.
The only thing I knew about Baiju Bawra uptil now was the black ‘n” white movie with Bharat Bhushan as the lead actor. It was good to know the famed musician through your post. Maybe we will get to see Chanderi one day.
I just heard name of Baiju bawra , but never knew about his life. it’s really heart touching story of him and very sad to know no respect to great musician tomb.
Interesting post. I have heard about the movie and good to know more about the singer through ur post.
So much history behind this place.makes it very interested. Thank you so much for putting it out in detail
This place looks really so beautiful. I didn’t know about this place before. You have covered all the details so well.
You guys always visit the most awesome places. Amazing to follow the legends and stories associated with these hallowed spots, too. Reading up on the history adds power to the tourist spot. I love to imagine how things were way back in the day.
I don’t think anyone has covered India like you guys. You guys not only showcase the place but you also tell history, how to reach there and places to visit nearby. These are some great qualities of your blog.l
Honestly speaking I did not know about Baiju Bawra till now. Its good to read about our history and the important people it is made up of. I have never been to Chanderi till now but I would love to go there someday. I will bookmark this post for my future reference.
I would love to visit the Tomb of Baiju Bawra in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, India. Chanderi has always been known for its silk sarees but I would like to visit for exploring our rich historical legacy.
To know about the music legend was fascinating. I would want to visit this historal place and see all the places you shared to visit.
I belong to Madhya Pradesh but have never been able to visit such a historical site. It seems such a wonderful place to visit and remember the great music created by Baiju bawra.
I have heard about the legend of Baiju Bawra, and also the movie from my father. I would love to visit this place after reading these details about him.
Madhya Pradesh has so many hidden gems! I would love to explore this state! Thanks for the comprehensive guide!
Wow I did not know that Baiju Bawra was real. I only remember the song of Md. rafi from Baiju Bawra movie. thanks for this informative post.
I’ve heard about Biju Bawra as a musician and nothing more than that. This was a very interesting blog to read. Every place and person has a story to tell. Now I know chanderi is also popular for the tomb of Biju Bawra and not just the silk sarees.