“This is known as the Mandir to Masjid walk,” says Sanketbhai who takes us on a walk back in time, on the Heritage Walk Ahmedabad. He leads us from temples to mosques across the intricate labyrinth of small lanes in the walled city of Ahmedabad. The famous “Pols” of old Ahmedabad unravel their secret stories as Sanketbhai takes us on a journey into what is a living museum of history on the heritage walk Ahmedabad.

The UNESCO World Heritage city, Ahmedabad, is of course well known, but did you know why the city has earned this recognition? We learned about why Ahmedabad has earned this status over older cities like Jaipur, Mumbai, Delhi, and others.

The city of Ahmedabad is a unique fusion of cultures. It is a place where temples and mosques co-exist, where heritage and contemporary architecture rub shoulders. It is a city where spirituality and enterprise blend harmoniously, a place that pulsates with typical Gujarati warmth, hospitality, and enterprise. Come join us virtually as we take you with us into the fascinating lanes and bylanes of history on this Ahmedabad Heritage Walk.

Heritage Walk Ahmedabad – Old Ahmedabad Heritage Walk

Ahmedabad heritage places are many and span from Gandhi Ashram to the famous Sidi Saiyyed Jali, the Shaking Minarets, and much more. However, for us, Ahmedabad is a place that brings alive precious childhood memories. Each landmark holds a key to a time that we have experienced and is now frozen in time and stored as a memory. The Heritage Walk Ahmedabad showed us the city in a new light. It gave us a new perspective and understanding of the rich and unique heritage of the city.

Pols are historic precursors of the modern day gated communities and are located within the walled city of Ahmedabad, they are housing clusters within a confined space that is home to a close knit community. Pols are characterized by one or two gates and a secret passage.

Heritage Walk Ahmedabad – A Journey Into Ahmedabad’s Heart

The Old City Ahmedabad heritage walk take you straight into the heart of the vibrant city, across lanes teeming with activity, cul-de-sacs where kids are engaged in a boisterous game of cricket.

You pass a lady lost in the pages of the morning newspaper in the cool confines of the verandah of her house.

A street vendor who has just deep-fried his first batch of juicy and crispy Jalebis looks at us nonchalantly.

The shops on either side of the street were closed as we were on the Morning Heritage Walk Ahmedabad.

Hand carts overflowing with varieties of cut vegetables flank the lane that leads to the Shree Swaminarayan Mandir in Kalupur. The almost 200-year-old temple of the Swaminarayan sect is also the first point of the Ahmedabad heritage walk.

Ahmedabad Heritage Walk Map

Shree Swaminarayan Temple Kalupur

A massive gate with ornate embellishments leads to the Swaminarayan temple. This is the North gate that opens into the courtyard which houses the Swaminarayan temple complex. Beautiful sculptures and facades of columned pavilions adorn the gate.

The elements of British and indigenous architectural styles are evident in the design and sculptures. Wrestlers engaged in hand to hand combat, men engaged in a duel with tigers, women clasping babies to their bosom, are some of the sculptures that come alive at the North Gate of Shree Swaminarayan temple in Kalupur, Ahmedabad.

The sculptures showcase the cultures and costumes of Maharashtra and Gujarat.

What is unique about the Swaminarayan Mandir is that this is the first temple of the Swaminarayan sect. It was commissioned by Swaminarayan Bhagawan (Sahajanand Swami), the founder of the sect, himself. The work of building the temple was entrusted by Lord Swaminarayan to Anandanand Swami. The other striking feature of the temple is its exquisite wooden carvings made in pure Burma-Teak, and the natural colours used.

The main temple is the Nar Narayan Temple with the presiding deity in the form of Nar and Narayan. The deity here has been installed by Swaminarayan himself. The other deities in this temple include Radhakrishna Dev, Dharmadev, Bhaktimata, and Harikrishna. Visiting the hallowed environs of the Swaminarayan temple was a great start for the day as well as for the Ahmedabad Heritage Walk.

Chabutras of Ahmedabad

One of the first things that you will notice during your heritage walk in Ahmedabad are beautifully ornamented structures that stand on a column. They have a small canopied pavilion at the top. You are likely to find them in the centre of the square (chowk) of most Pols in the walled city of Ahmedabad.

These structures are a silent testimony to the compassionate and generous nature of the people of Ahmedabad. A trait that is a legacy from the past and can be seen even today in the warmth and hospitality of its people. “Chabutra,” or “Chabutro,” is derived from, “Kabutar,” which means Pigeon. These structures were meant for feeding pigeons and other birds and providing them with a place to rest and quench their thirst.

Ingenious Sewage System

The walled city had an ingenious underground sewage system that goes back to the late 19th century. On our heritage walk in Ahmedabad, we were fascinated by the sight of tall pole-like structures with an arrow at the top. Sanketbhai, our guide on the Ahmedabad Heritage Walk, asked us to guess what this structure with the arrow was all about. “Direction of the wind,” said someone, “light pole,” said another, but none of the guesses was right. The tower-like structure was actually part of an underground sewage system, with the arrow indicating the direction of the flow of the sewage.

Did you know that Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel started his political career from Ahmedababad? He won a Municipal by-election from the Dariapur ward in 1917, by one vote and later went on to become the Municipal President from 1924 to 1928.

Secret Exit Passages

The basic rationale behind the evolution of the Pols was security. It is thus natural to expect secret escape routes inside the Pols. On the Ahmedabad Heritage Walk, we reached what was for all intents and purposes a cul-de-sac. There were houses on all sides and we stood in the middle of a square.

Here our guide Sanketbhai donned the avatar of a Sherlock Holmes, and announced, “can anyone say where the secret passage is?” There were wooden doors that led to the inside of houses everywhere. But there was one in the corner with a grill door, and that was a dead giveaway. Sanketbhai pointed out that in the earlier days all doors looked similar and it was impossible for a stranger to make out which door led to the secret passage.

We entered the secret passage and emerged out into a neighbouring Pol. “Divided by Pol, united by passage,” said Sanketbhai underlying the utility of the secret passage.

Dalpatram Chowk

After walking a few metres from the Swaminarayan Temple, the starting point of the heritage walk Ahmedabad, we reached a square where stood a black statue made of Ashtadhatu. The statue was that of the famous Gujarati poet and social reformer Dalpatram Dahyabhai who had been affectionately conferred the title of, “Kavishwar.”

The famous Gujarati poet who lived between 1820-1998 stayed in a house in Lambeshwar Ni Pol. The house no longer exists. However, a facade has been created that resembles his house as a memorial to the great poet. This stands in the middle of a square in Lambeshwar Ni Pol and is known as Kavi Dalpatram Memorial.

Khara Kuva Ni Pol

A short walk through a narrow alley, and we emerged from the Lambeshwar Ni Pol onto the famous Relief Road. The road is actually named Tilak Road but is popularly known as Relief Road. The road was built by the British in 1940 with the objective of providing relief to the congested Gandhi Road which was then known as Richie Road. We crossed the Relief road to enter the Haja Patel Ni Pol.

On the corner of this Pol, facing the Relief road once stood the beautiful and famous Calico Dome. The structure collapsed during the 2001 earthquake. The dome is under reconstruction right now.

A few yards away from the Calico dome stands the entrance to the Khara Kuva Ni Pol. Above the entrance gate to the Pol is a room that served as an observation point for guards. A door by the side of the entrance leads up to the observation room. The Pol gets its name from a well within the Pol. “Kharakuva,” in Gujarati means salt well.

Kala Ramji Mandir

A beautiful black marble image of a sitting Lord Rama greets us at the Kala Ramji Mandir that is located in a corner of the Haja Patel Ni Pol. The temple is almost 400 years old and is built in the Haveli style. The complex consists of the Kala Ramji temple as well as residential quarters where the temple priest and his family reside.

The temple is unique because of the Ram idol which depicts Shri Ram in a sitting position. The other noteworthy feature of the temple is the beautifully carved pillars made from Burma-teak.

Shantinath Ni Pol And Derasar

A chowk or square stands in the middle of houses.

Stone and wooden benches near an exquisitely carved wooden Chabutra is obviously a meeting point for the community. This is where the latest Pol gossip is exchanged.

Colourful street art depicts a bicycle on one of the walls lending the Pol a colourful touch.

A blackboard serves as a means for broadcasting important information to the community and is still used.

Towards one corner of the chowk stands a small but beautiful Jain temple or Jain Derasar. This is the Shantinath nu Derasar, which houses a 19-inch tall idol of Shantinath Tirthankar.

The beauty of the Jain temple is not apparent from the outside, however, it is a visual delight from the inside. The temple is believed to have been built entirely of wood but had to be relocated during the construction of the Relief road. It was then rebuilt in marble, but many of the intricate wooden carvings are still preserved inside the temple.

Kuwawalo Khancho

If Pols are housing clusters, then a Khancho is a sub-cluster within a Pol. We saw many such sub-clusters nestling within the larger Pols on our Heritage walk in Ahmedabad. One such fascinating sub-cluster was the Kuwawalo Khancho. This is an intersection that is located near the Shantinath Ji Ni Pol.

This is a spot not to be missed on your Ahmedabad Heritage walk, and more so if you are a connoisseur or student of architecture.

The influence of different schools of architecture can be seen in close proximity to each other. Four neighbouring houses have different architectural elements.

One clearly shows the influence of Marathi culture and architecture while another house incorporates elements of Persian architecture. The colonial influence is evident in another house, while the fourth house borrows elements from Mughal architecture.

Parrot Holes (પોપટના ગોખ )

Having spent a considerable period of our lives in Ahmedabad we can vouch for the innate warmth and friendship displayed by its people. It is the norm for them to shower their hospitality even on strangers. This goodness of heart and love towards all living beings which is essentially an important aspect of Jain thinking and philosophy can be seen in what is termed in Gujarati as, “Popatna Gokh,” the term roughly translates as Parrot holes in English.

Despite being in the heart of a bustling city, we could hear the chirping of birds. The reason for this is of course the bird feeders (Chabutras) and the Parrot Holes. The instinctive love for birds led the builders of the Pols to incorporate small niches or pigeon holes on the outer walls of houses to provide shelter to the birds. Is this not an amazing example of the harmony between man and nature? A symbiotic co-existence that is indeed the need of the hour for our planet.

Ashtapadji Derasar | Ashtapadji Mandir

The Heritage Walk Ahmedabad springs surprises on you at every twisting turn and every nook and corner. Structures of architectural brilliance and design serenade you in the least expected of places. One such magnificent edifice that greets you on the heritage walk is the marble Ashtapadji Jain temple. The facade of the Ashtapadji temple is made of three ornate balconies supported by beautiful columns and brackets on the first floor. The ground floor has elaborately carved arches. Floral motifs and figures of animals, as well as dancers and musicians, embellish the exterior of the Jain temple.

Doshiwada Ni Pol

The Doshiwada Ni Pol with its many Havelis that have elaborately carved facades is a stunning example of the architectural heritage that lies hidden in the midst of the housing clusters of old Ahmedabad.

This Pol has many shops on the ground level with residences at the top, the goldsmith community lives in this Pol.

Harkunvar Shethani Ni Haveli

Standing almost inconspicuously in the corner of a narrow alley is a three-storeyed building that grabs your attention. The size of the building is not apparent from the outside, but what rivets your attention is the exquisite wooden carvings in the facade. There is a massive wooden bracket that has elements of Chinese architecture in the form of a dragon. We learned that this bracket is the longest bracket within the walled city of Ahmedabad. The Haveli has 60 rooms that open onto pillared balconies.

It is interesting to note that the Harkunvar was the third wife of Seth Hutheesing who continued his mission of philanthropy and temple building, even after his demise. The Hutheesing family which originated from Osian in Rajasthan have a history of more than 250 years of trade and construction in Ahmedabad. One of the notable contributions of the Hutheesing lineage is the famous Hutheesing Jain Temple that stands outside the Delhi Darwaza in Ahmedabad.

Did you know that Krishna, the youngest sister of Jawaharlal Nehru was married into the Hutheesing family?

Fernandez Bridge

A booklover smells books before he sees them. When we entered the area popularly known as Fernandez Bridge we were swept away by strong waves of nostalgia. In Ahmedabad, if you are a student or a book lover, Fernandez Bridge would be or have been your favourite haunt. Memories of foraging for books in Fernandez Bridge during school and college days flooded the mind.

Fernandez Bridge is synonymous with the book market that overflows onto the street from its small shops, many of them more than a century old. You will find all sorts of books from dusty and dog-eared history books to paperbacks fresh from the press. What will fascinate you is that if you just name a book or its author, the shopkeeper will fish it out from the chaotic heap in a jiffy!

Did you know that where the famous Fernandez Bridge book market or Chopda Bazar stands today was once in the course of a river ? The Fernandez Bridge was built by the British in the year 1884 as an extension to Gandhi Road.

Manek Chowk 

Manek Chowk is in many ways the cradle of Ahmedabad City. It continues to be a nerve centre of a city that has evolved over the centuries.

It was early morning and a few cows ambled around the square famously known as Manek Chowk.

Steam from a kettle filled with boiling water created circles in the air at a roadside tea stall. The old Ahmedabad Stock Exchange stood silently, probably missing the cacophony of animated human voices in its portals.

It was difficult to believe that this quiet place had been buzzing with activity barely a few hours ago, with its food stalls kicking up a racket and a melange of aromas wafting in the air. Truly Manek Chowk is a place that is schizophrenic.

In the morning it is a vegetable market, and as the sun goes up it transforms into a bullion market, and as the shadows, lengthen and daylight gives way to darkness, it metamorphoses into a food street!

Manek Chowk in many ways is the essence of Ahmedabad and Amdavad. A place that has been a witness to the history of the city from its inception. The tombs of Baba Maneknath who had a mystical role to play in the establishment of Ahmedabad, and Ahmed Shah I who laid the foundations of the city at Bhadra Fort, are located in the vicinity of Manek Chowk.

Old Ahmedabad Stock Exchange Building

The Ahmedabad Stock Exchange is an icon of the enterprise and business acumen of the people of Gujarat in general and Ahmedabad in particular. It was sad to see the 100 years old building in a derelict condition. The Ahmedabad Stock Exchange had started under a Banyan tree before it started operations in the historic building in Manek Chowk.

The stock market and methods of trading have evolved with technology and can be done with the flick of the mouse. But, as you gaze up at the old stock exchange building of Ahmedabad, you feel a sense of regret for the time that has passed into the darkness of history. The Ahmedabad Stock Exchange stopped functioning in the year 2018.

Mahurat Pol

Standing opposite the dilapidated Stock Exchange building in Manek Chowk is another frozen moment of history. This is the Mahurat Pol, believed to be the first Pol that was built in the city founded by Ahmed Shah I. The Pol gets its name from the word Mahurat, which in common parlance denotes an auspicious moment. Mahurat is derived from the Sanskrit word, “Muhūrta”(मुहूर्त). The original meaning of the word is, “moment”, and described as a unit of time in the Rig Veda. The word evolved to mean a time interval that was considered auspicious for the beginning of any enterprise or religious ceremony.

It is also believed that Ahmed Shah I, himself may have lived inside the Mahurat Pol at one time.

Badshah No Hajiro

“Assalam Aalaykaya Ya Rasool Allah,
Assalam Aalaykaya Ya Habib Allah,
Assalam Aalaykaya Ya Nabi Allah,”

These lines written on a board atop an arched entrance gate, tell us that we are nearing the end of our, “Mandir Se Masjid,” walk. We pass through the arch into an area that houses Muslim residential quarters as well as the tombs of the royal family of the founder of the city of Ahmedabad, Ahmed Shah I, after whom the city gets its name.

On one side is the Rani No Hajiro that is also referred to as Mughalai Bibi’s Tomb. This is a complex that houses a cluster of tombs of the queens of Ahmed Shah I and other rulers of Gujarat Sultanate. Currently, the Rani No Hajiro is surrounded by a market that is choc-a-block with shops selling women’s clothing, jewellery, and also an assorted range of Mukhwas (Local Mouth fresheners).

Towards the west of the Rani No Hajiro is located the Badshah No Hajiro.

Crossing the threshold of the Badshah No Hajiro (The Emperor’s Tomb), was like taking a leap back in history. The chasm created by time suddenly disappeared, and we were in front of Ahmed Shah I, the founder of Ahmedabad. Of course, he lay still in eternal sleep beneath his tomb.

Women are prohibited from entering the inner chamber where three kings slumber in eternal sleep. Men can enter but need to cover their heads. It is a place of prayer and hence appropriate behaviour including silence needs to be followed.  The central tomb is that of Ahmed Shah I, towards his left is the tomb of his son Muhammad Shah II, while towards his right lies his grandson Qutb-ud-din Ahmed Shah.

The semi-dark chamber, a flickering oil lamp, light streaming in from latticed windows, and the colourful carpets and the Chadars that cover the tombs fuse together to create a surreal effect. People bow down at the tomb of Ahmed Shah I and sit in silent obeisance.

Jama Masjid

A kid on a small bicycle smiles and waves to us before zipping off on his cycle.

A snow-white kid (Goat) demurely looks at us standing on a ledge of one of the outer walls of the Jama Majid, totally oblivious to the fact that it is being framed by an exquisite piece of carving. And so we make our way from the tomb of Ahmed Shah I towards the final destination of our Ahmedabad Heritage Walk, the Jama Masjid.

The Jama Masjid is a sprawling mosque with a reservoir in the centre. The massive proportions of the place remind us about the Taj-ul-Masajid In Bhopal. 15 domes can be seen, supported by 260 elegant pillars. The facade that leads to the Mihrab and the prayer towards the West is a beautiful synthesis of elements of Islamic and Gujarat styles of architecture.

Many motifs and elements of Hindu and Jain temple architecture can be found in the Jama Masjid.

If you look close enough, you are likely to find a Kalpavriksha, central domes carved in the shape of lotuses, and bells hanging from chains. The mosque is a truly remarkable example of syncretic architecture and design.

The Jama Masjid was built in 1424 by Ahmed Shah I. It was considered to be one of the best mosques in the East during its heyday. It still retains its charm and elegance in spite of the ravages of time and nature.

The Heritage walk in Ahmedabad culminated at the Jama Masjid, the walk had curated an experience that spanned 600 years of history, and many of this incredibly was living history. The walk served to whet our appetite for more.

Did you know that the Jama Masjid was one of the first mosques that allowed women to offer Namaz in a specially designated place?

The heritage walk also answered our question as to how Ahmedabad with a history of around 600 years became the first UNESCO World Heritage City in India, over much older cities of India. We understood that it took over 20 years of hard work and sustained efforts and coordination of different stakeholders to make this happen. NGO’s, business houses, policymakers in the Government, and above all the cooperation and contribution of the people of Ahmedabad made this happen, and we are sure the sustained efforts will bring back the sheen to the heritage sites of Ahmedabad which number in the thousands.

Quick Facts About The Heritage Walk Ahmedabad | Ahmedabad Heritage Walk

There are 3 options to choose from – the Morning Walk ( Morning Package), the Night Walk (Night Package), and the Jain Heritage Walk, the Ahmedabad Heritage Walk Route depends on the option that you chose. Click here for the morning route, night route and Jain Walk route.

Morning Heritage Walk Ahmedabad

The morning Ahmedabad heritage walk is the one that we did. It starts at 8.00 AM from the Swaminarayan Temple and covers 20 points. The walk ends at the Jama Masjid around 10.30 AM. The walk takes about 2.5 hours and traverses a route that stretches to about 2.5 kilometres.

Night Heritage Walk Ahmedabad

The Night heritage walk starts from the famous Sidi Saiyed Mosque located in Lal Darwaza at 8.45 PM and finishes at Manek Chowk at 10.00 PM. The main places covered on this Ahmedabad heritage walk are Sidi Saiyed Mosque, Bhadra Fort, Bhadra Kali Temple, Jama Masjid, and Manek Chowk among others. The walk covers 15 points of interest.

Jain Heritage Walk Ahmedabad

This is a special heritage walk that covers the best of Jain temples within the walled city. The walk starts at 7.00 AM from the Shantinath Derasar and ends at Manek Chowk, covering a distance of about 2.0Kms.

You need to dress modestly as the Heritage Walk Ahmedabad Route covers places of worship of Hindus, Jains, and Muslims during the Ahmedabad heritage walks

How to Reach Ahmedabad

Ahmedabad is the commercial capital of the state of Gujarat in India. It is a UNESCO World Heritage City and is well connected by road, rail, and air.

By Air

Ahmedabad is served by the Sardar Vallabhbhai International Airport. The enjoys good connectivity with places like Delhi, Bangalore, Mumbai, Goa, Jaipur, Udaipur, and all major cities and towns of India.

By Rail

Ahmedabad is a major rail junction on the Western Railway. The city is well connected to major cities of India by rail including Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, Kochi, etc., trains to major towns and cities of Gujarat including Surat, Vadodara, Kutch, Saurashtra, etc., are available.

By Road

Ahmedabad has a well-developed road network that makes it easy to travel within the state as well as outside the state. State Government-run GSRTC buses, private buses, and taxis are a great way to travel across Gujarat.

If you are planning a trip to Ahmedabad or anywhere in Gujarat, India then you can book a cheap flight through TripAdvisor or CheapAir or Cleartrip or Makemytrip or Priceline right here. You can fly to Ahmedabad or even plan a road trip. Some of the options to reach Ahmedabad could be by self-drive car or cab or bus or alternatively taking a train.

Where To Stay In Ahmedabad

There is no dearth of places to stay in Ahmedabad. You can choose from luxury hotels and resorts, heritage resorts, business hotels, and budget hotels. During this trip, we stayed at the heritage hotel called House of MG. It is interesting to note that there is a House Of MG Ahmedabad Heritage Walk, also available.

There are plenty of options to stay in Ahmedabad. There is a choice of budget accommodation as well as luxury hotels. If you are looking for hotels in Ahmedabad Gujarat or anywhere else, you can book hotels right here through any of the below options. TripAdvisor or Cleartrip or Makemytrip or Priceline and save a lot by getting the best deals on booking your stay.

Click to book the best hotels

Heritage Walk Ahmedabad – FAQ

How To Register For Ahmedabad Heritage Walk?
Do check out the official site of Heritage Walk Ahmedabad here for booking.

What are the Heritage Walk Ahmedabad Fees?
The fees depend on the package that you opt for, check out this link for options and fees.

Is Ahmedabad a World Heritage city?
Ahmedabad is a UNESCO World Heritage city and was the first Indian city to be declared so.

How long is Heritage Walk?
The heritage walks cover a distance of about 2 kilometres and last for about 2 to 2.5 hours.

When does the Ahmedabad Heritage Walk happen?
There is a choice of packages, the morning heritage walk starts at 8:00 AM, and the Ahmedabad Night Heritage Walk starts at 8:45 PM.

What is Heritage Walk?
The Ahmedabad Heritage Walk takes you on a walk into the walled city across some of the famous Heritage Sites in Ahmedabad.

Where does AMC Heritage Walk start from?
The walk starts from the Swaminarayan Temple, Kalupur in the morning. The Ahmedabad Heritage Walk Night, starts from the Sidi Saiyed Mosque in Lal Darwaja.

We hope you liked reading our Amdavad Heritage Walk blog post. Do let us know your thoughts through the comments section. For more interesting posts do subscribe to our blog and follow us on our social media channels.

Our visit to Ahmedabad was part of a familiarization trip organized by India Tourism Mumbai – Ministry of Tourism, Government of India and Gujarat Tourism under the #DekhoApnaDesh initiative. The views and opinions expressed in this blog post are our own.

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